ADVENTURES OF GILBERT GO-AHEAD (from Robert Merry's Museum, July 1854, pp. 206-212)
As speedily as possible I made my preparations to quit Nishapoor, and proceed on my journey. My intention was to go to Teheran, the capital of Persia. This lies to the west a distance of more than three hundred miles, the route leading, for the most part, through a rugged, wild and mountainous country.
Having exchanged my little cob of a horse for a more lively animal, I joined a small caravan of traders, and we set forward. Nishapoor is situated in the province or Khorassin, a term which signifies Country of the Law. The southern part of the district is a saline desert, which is frequently swept by a terrible wind called the Simoon. The northern portions consist of lofty and rugged ridges, and fertile valleys between.
Cattle-feeding is the chief employment of the inhabitants of the desert. There are among them, however, bands of Turcomans, Roords, and Djeleis, who live by plunder, being mounted on swift camels or horses, and roaming about from place to place, restless as vultures, seeking whom they may devour.
Our company proceeded at the rate of about twenty miles a day, and at the end of a week they had performed more than half the journey. At last we came to a narrow pass, lying between two rocky mountains. The place was exceedingly wild, and scarcely allowed a pathway between the enormous rocks that had fallen from the impending cliffs on both sides, and choked up the valley. This place was regarded with a degree of terror, partly on account of its natural wildness, partly because it had the reputation of being haunted by wolves, and more than all because it was the rendezvous of robbers.
As we approached the place, our whole party became watchful, and every man prepared for defence. Some were armed with pistols, some with knives, others with scimitars, and three or four with long spears. One or two ferocious looking fellows were provided with all these weapons.
For myself, not being aware of the danger, I was entirely unarmed, and would have given a good price for one of Colt's revolvers, or Sharpe's rifles; but these were out of the question. After a good deal of dickering, I bought a pistol of one of our company, a trading Armenian, who, like the greater part of our caravan, was on his way from Cabul to Damascus, or some of the intermediate capitals.
On examining the piece, however, I found it perfectly useless. I could think of nothing better than to cut myself a club about five feet in length, which, being of wood in the sap, was very heavy, and a formidable weapon. I took care to place myself about the middle of the caravan, in the rear of a brawny Syrian, armed to the teeth, my
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idea being that he would take the brunt of the battle, if we should actually meet with an enemy.
It was just at evening that we entered this formidable pass, which bore the name of the Tiger's Throat. The moon was nearly at its full, and in a short time was visible over the mountains to the east. In a safe country and a pleasant state of mind, the full moon is a cheerful companion, and seems to throw a pleasant calm over the feelings; but in a wild region where the rocks around seem naturally to assume the appearance of bears, lions, and tigers, and especially where these frightful images seem to acquire life and activity from the legends which haunt the place, the moon serves only to excite the terrors of the imagination.
The grisly images around become more frightful in the pale light that seems, after all, only to give relief and boldness to the monsters that crouch in the shadows. It may be well understood, therefore, that the minds of our party were wrought up to the highest pitch by the time we reached the middle of the valley, where, we had reason to suppose, that the terrible Turcomans might rush upon us.
At this critical moment there was a sudden sound, like the rush of a horseman, down the rocky sides of the mountain. "They come, they come," burst in a wild shout from the whole line of our caravan. At the same moment every man was seen to put his horse to the gallop, and rush headlong through the various windings of the pass. Some went forward, some dashed into the ravines at the side, some turned backward, and scampered away as fast as they could go.
For my part I stood still, holding my pistol in my left hand, which I intended to show as a warning, while I grasped my green shillelah in the right, for service. I waited several minutes, but no enemy appeared; I therefore moved forward, and soon put my horse into a smart trot. As I was descending a rocky declivity, I suddenly came upon a hideous fellow, armed with a spear at least eight feet long, a carbine, and other weapons.
As the full moonlight fell upon him, I could see that he was a man of great strength, and well mounted. He did not give me time to turn about and run, as I thought of doing, but, uttering a yell of "Allah il allah," he came at me in a furious gallop. "Bunker Hill and Buena Vista," said I, at the same time rising in my stirrups and whirling my club round in the air, as I had seen the Murphys do at New York.
Whiz came the spear close to my ear, and a moment after my enemy assaulted me with his scimitar. I expected to see my head fly off like a popped corn. Nevertheless, I swung my shillelah about, and taking advantage of a good opportunity, gave the fellow a slap at the side of the head which tumbled him off his horse, and sent him rolling over the rocks like a sack of meal. I immediately seized the bridle of his horse, and leading him by my side, trotted rapidly along through the dell.
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I pursued what I supposed to be the road till morning. I was astonished, and wondered what had become alike of the enemy and of my companions. The weather was clear, and though I was not sure that I was in the right path, I could see from the rising sun that I was going in the right direction. Continuing my journey, after two days' solitary travel I came to the town of Demavend, which is a small place situated at the foot of a mountain of the same name.
This is the loftiest peak of the celebrated Elburze range, which extends in a bending line across the whole of Northern Persia. It is in fact a part of the chain which reaches, under various names, across the whole of Central Asia, from the borders of the Black Sea to the eastern shores of China. Mount Demavend is fifteen thousand feet high. It has a conical shape, with a crater at the top, which shows that it has been volcanic. It yields large quantities of pumice stone and pure sulphur. Around its base are numerous hot springs.
I remained at this place two or three days, to recruit and examine my prize, consisting of a horse I had captured from the Turcoman, together with the contents of the burthen he bore.
These I found to consist of merchandise of various kinds, of immense value. There were not only some exquisite rings, pendants, bracelets, and other ornaments, set with rubies, diamonds, and other precious stones, from Golconda, but there were three magnificent shawls from Cashmere; a box of one hundred and sixteen superb turquoises of the largest and purest kind; several pieces of the most beautiful India muslin that I have ever seen; nearly a hundred uncut diamonds of various sizes; about two pounds of musk; six pounds of opium, and a variety of other articles of greater or less value. I estimated the whole to be worth at least fifty thousand dollars.
Of course I was in a state of great exultation. "My object is accomplished," said I, "my fortune is made; I can now go back and live like a nabob at Sandy Plain." I could hardly refrain from rushing into the streets and proclaiming my good fortune to the inhabitants of the village. A little reflection, however, satisfied me that I had better keep my own counsel. I repacked my precious stones, sold my own horse, and set out upon the one I had taken, to Teheran.
The next day I arrived at this city, which is the winter capital of Persia. It looks well as you approach it, its mosques, colleges, and caravanseries being numerous and in good condition. It has also several well furnished shops and bazaars, and a few handsome palaces belonging to the Persian nobility. There are two royal palaces, one in the city, and another on a hill in the vicinity. It is surrounded by an earthen wall, and from a distance, as I have said, has a picturesque appearance, but the streets within the city consist of low houses built of earth, and have a most mean and muddy appearance.
I took up my residence at one of the caravanseries, and being now easy in my
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circumstances, I indulged myself in a few luxuries I considered no more than my due, after the many hardships, sufferings, and privations I had endured. But misfortune seems generally nearest when we least expect it. I was one day walking in the bazaar, dressed in a new turban and rich green surtout, edged with fur and coming down to my heels; on my fingers I had no less than seven magnificent rings, and wore a breast-pin worth at least five hundred dollars. In fact, I was attired like a prince, and I have an idea that I looked like one.
As I passed through the crowd everybody turned and looked at me. I drew myself up to my full height and towered head and shoulders above the mass around me. But suddenly I saw myself surrounded by a set of desperate looking fellows, armed with scimitars, blue jackets and red turbans. I had not time to say a word before I was seized and trotted off through the streets, a crowd or loafers and vagabonds--men, women, and children--trudging after us, and chattering like so many geese.
At last we arrived at a dark looking stone building, the door of which was speedily opened, and in I was thrust, my captors following me. Here we paused a moment, and there was a consultation. I took advantage of the opportunity to ask the leader of the band what I was to understand by all this violence. The man gazed at me a moment, but made no reply. I then addressed the whole company as follows:--
"This may be very good sport for you, gentlemen, but it is not pleasant to me. I have always understood that the Persians were a polite people, but never in my life have been treated so rudely. Here am I, a stranger, in Teheran, quietly and innocently walking the streets, when I am suddenly seized and hurried off to prison. Nobody condescends to tell me the crime of which I am accused; no opportunity is given for explanation or defence.
"This is not only a breach of good manners, but it is a violation of justice and law, as understood in civilized countries. You had better take care of what you do, I belong to the universal Yankee Nation, which beat the British, thrashed the Algerines, conquered Mexico, and swallowed California whole. You'd better look out I say, General Pierce is President, and if he hears of the manner in which you treat a citizen of the United States, he'll make you pay dear for it."
Having made this speech, I looked round to observe its effect, but the fellow said nothing, and all looked the other way. In a short time, a small fat man, of a sallow and feminine look, and a black turban on his head, came with a bunch of enormous keys. We followed him between a long range of rooms till we came to a stone archway. Here the little sallow man put in a key and opened a heavy door. In I was thrust, the door was locked, and I was left to myself.
Here was a pretty adventure. What a terrible downfall of my fortunes! The
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place was as dark as pitch, and very damp withal. I tried to whistle Yankee Doodle, but there was no music in me, which is pretty good evidence that I felt my situation to be rather a discouraging one. After a time I began to feel a little better, and concluding that matters would mend some time or other, sat down upon a stone seat and considered my ways and means.
To make a long story short, I was taken out at the end of three days, and brought before the criminal court of Teheran. There were four judges, who wore turbans as big as a half-bushel basket. I was charged with robbing Malek Taroum al Taroum, a merchant of Armenia, in a fierce and felonious manner.
The crime was stated to have taken place by night, in the pass of the Tiger's Throat. The indictment set forth the event as one of the most horrible crimes that had ever been committed. Malek had been knocked down, stripped from his horse, tumbled over the rocks, and left for dead, while the robber fled with his horse, carrying off rich treasures of untold value.
Never was a man more completely thunderstruck than I was at this accusation, and what was worse, the story was substantially true. The sufferer was now brought forward as a witness, and, to my amazement, I perceived that he was one of my companions on the journey from Nishapoor. In a moment I saw the whole truth. Somehow or other this man and myself, during the alarm in the valley, had mistaken each other for enemies. Each had taken the other for a Turcoman. In the battle I had come off victorious, and supposed that the effects of my robber enemy were the lawful spoils of war. He, too, had taken me for a Turcoman, and finding me at Teheran caused me to be arrested and taken before the court.
I allowed the case to proceed till the witness had told his story, in which, by the way, he had adhered to the truth, except the addition of a few flourishes, setting forth his valorous achievements in the combat. I then asked permission of the court to cross question the witness. This was granted, and we proceeded as follows:--
"You say that your name is Malek Taroum al Taroum?"
"It is," was the answer.
"You have been on a trading expedition to Cabul, and you were returning to your native country, which is Armenia?"
"Yes."
"At Nishapoor you were joined by a stranger, who accompanied you as far as the Tiger's Pass. This stranger purchased of you an old pistol, and gave you five dollars for it, as a means of defence against the Turcomans who were expected to attack the caravan. The pistol was good for nothing, and, of course, you cheated the stranger?"
"It was a fair bargain, the man saw what he bought."
"Well, was this the pistol?" As I said this, I handed it to him, for I happened to have it in my pocket.
"It is the same," said Malek, after a slight examination.
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"Look at me," said I, lifting my turban, "am not I the stranger to whom you sold the pistol?"
Malek looked amazed, but answered in the affirmative.
"One thing more," said I. "In the fright, occasioned among our party in the Tiger's Throat, you got bewildered and turned backward, as you have already related. You met me in your path, and violently assaulted me. In the battle you were defeated. It would appear then that you sought my life, while I acted from self-defence. I took your property, as belonging to me, of right, because I was the victor in a deadly encounter. Now, it appears to me, that we should exchange conditions; that you should take my place in prison and that I should be set at liberty."
The effect of this upon Malek was like that of a thunder-clap. He saw the full force of what I had stated, and his evident embarrassment convinced the court that my statement was the simple truth.
"What do you say to this?" said one of the judges, addressing Malek.
"Before I answer," said the merchant, "let me ask of the court, whether I could not claim my goods, even supposing the stranger has told the truth?"
"That will be for the court to consider," said the judge. "Let us first have the facts. Was the caravan actually attacked in the Tiger's Pass by the Turcomans!"
"I believe not," said Malek. "So far as I can learn the caravan was frightened by some accident, perhaps the rolling of a rock down one of the precipices. The noise sounded to them like the clatter of horses' feet, or the clashing of armed men. Some one cried out, 'They come,' and the whole party scattered."
"It appears to me very obvious," said the judge, "that the prisoner has given a true account of this affair. It explains circumstances which your story would render mysterious and improbable. What have you to say to the prisoner, who claims that you should take his place, and he be set at liberty?"
"And is he to keep my property?" said Malek, with a shudder.
"Why not?" said the judge.
"It was all an innocent mistake on my part," said the merchant, now completely humbled.
"Yes," said the judge, "but you put this man's life in peril. You sought to slay him, and he has escaped only by the will of God. You have pursued him and caused him to be imprisoned. You have arraigned him before this court, and have done what you could to effect his punishment."
"Still I acted without evil motive. I acted under a mistake. I am willing to make compensation."
"How much," said the judge.
Here I begged leave to speak. "Don't be hard upon the merchant," said I; "may it please your honors, I can see that this affair is a blunder from beginning to end. Let me be set at liberty, and I will cheerfully restore to Malek his property. I will leave it to him to make such compensation as he thinks proper."
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The Armenian joyfully accepted this arrangement, and the court confirmed it. I was immediately liberated, and went with the merchant to my apartments at the caravanserie, where I delivered him his property. He carefully examined the whole, and compared tho articles with his inventory. Everything was there except a single diamond, which I had sold. He took care to assure himself that he was in full possession, and then asked me what I expected in consideration of the circumstances.
"I leave it entirely to you," said I, "you are rich and I am poor. Give me what you please."
"Well," said the Armenian, "you have sold a diamond which was worth five hundred dollars."
"I received but fifty for it," said I.
"It was worth at least five hundred, and that, I think, is ample compensation for your three days' imprisonment."
"As you please," said I, quietly.
"Very well," said he, rising, "if you are content, I am; farewell." Upon this he was about to take his leave, when I said, "Stop a moment, the account is not square. Your liberality leaves me in debt." Upon this I took him by the collar, dragged him through the door out upon the gallery of the caravanserie, brought him to the top of one of the stairways, aud giving him a kick, sent him on all fours to the bottom, where he landed safely, in a soft heap of camel's manure.
S. G. G.
[To be continued.]
ADVENTURES OF GILBERT GO-AHEAD (from Robert Merry's Museum, September 1854, pp. 271-276)
It was winter when I was at Teheran, and the King and Court were there. The place is very damp and unhealthy in summer, and at that season it is deserted by a great part of the inhabitants, who then remove to the adjacent country, there being many pleasant villages around. The winter population is sixty or seventy thousand, but in summer not more than ten thousand remain.
Persia, which makes such a figure in ancient history, is now comparatively insignificant. In the time of the celebrated Cyrus, the conqueror of Babylon, and the founder of the great Persian Empire upon the ruins of Assyria, 536 before Christ, it stretched from India to the borders of the Black Sea, and probably included about a hundred millions of inhabitants. About 330 B. C. it was conquered by Alexander, and from that period, amid many changes and vicissitudes, it has always continued to be an inferior kingdom. At the present time its population is about twelve millions; its territory, lying between the Caspian Sea on the north, and the Persian Gulf at the south, is about ten times as extensive as the State of New York, and seven times as extensive as New England.
The government is a complete despotism, and is administered with little wisdom. The nobles are numerous, and are entrusted with the provincial governments, where they practice every species of extortion and inquisition. The following anecdote will illustrate this:
Hajee Ibrahim was a noble of Teheran. A few years ago a shopkeeper of the capital went one day to the brother of Ibrahim, who was governor; to request the abatement of a tax which he was unable to pay.
"You must pay, or leave the city," replied the governor.
"Where shall I go?" asked the shopkeeper.
"To Shiraz," was the reply.
"Your nephew rules that city, and all your family are my enemies," was the answer.
"Then to Cashan."
"But your uncle is governor there."
"Then complain to the Shah."
"But your brother Hajee is prime minister."
"Then go to the lower regions," exclaimed the governor, in a passion.
"But your pious father is dead," retorted the shopkeeper.
Ibrahim burst into a laugh at the witty impudence of the man, and said:
"Then I will pay your tax myself, as my family keeps you from all means of redress, both in this world and in the next."
It would appear that although the Persian monarchs are among the most cruel of despots, they are not insensible to the claims of justice, if they chance to be put in such a way as to touch the heart. It is said of Shah Abbas, who flourished about the year 1600, A. D., and whose reign was regarded as the golden
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period of modern Persia, that he was once on a hunting expedition, when just at dawn, he met a very ugly looking peasant. At the sight of this person the king's horse started so violently as almost to throw him off. Abbas, who like most of his countrymen, was superstitious, deeming this a bad omen, ordered the man's head to be struck off. The poor peasant was immediately seized, and the cimitar was drawn for his execution, when he begged that they would inform him what crime he had committed.
"Your crime," said the Shah, "is your unlucky face, which is the first object I saw this morning, and which had nearly caused me to break my neck."
"Alas," said the man, "by this rule, what must I say of your majesty's face, which was the first object I saw this morning, and which is about to cause me to lose my head?"
The Shah was so diverted by the man's wit and presence of mind, that he not only spared him his life, but made him a liberal present.
Among the wild animals of Persia, are lions, tigers, leopards, chetahs or hunting leopards, lynxes and hyenas. There are few reptiles, but many parts are dreadfully infested by insects. Scorpious, centipedes of great size, and gigantic spiders, all venomous, are numerous in certain districts. The musquitoes in the jungles of the north surpass, in number and size, any thing of the kind known in the United States. Hosts of locusts occasionally spread like clouds over the country, and carry devastation far and wide. The camel is largely used in the trading caravans, and fine breeds of horses are common. The horse, indeed, is the great pet of the Persians. It is attended with as much care and attention as a child. It is clothed according to the weather, kept close in the stable during the heat of the day in summer, and taken out to breathe the fresh air at night. Dromedaries and mules are in great request as beasts of burthen.
The principal trade of Persia is with India, Turkey, Russia, Independent Tartary and Affghanistan. All this commerce is carried on by caravans, chiefly of camels. The whole interior of Asia has indeed been the theatre of an extended caravan trade for thousands of years. From India the Persians receive indigo, calicoes, muslins, gold and silver brocades, precious stones, china and earthen-ware. From Turkey they get European manufactures. From Russia, iron, broadcloth, gold lace, metal buttons, coarse calicoes, furs, fringes, cutlery, leather, glass-ware, quicksilver, &c. There is considerable direct trade with England, the Persians receiving woolen goods of all sorts, shawls, jewelry, fire-arms, watches, spectacles, glass-ware, earthen-ware, and articles of tin, copper, and iron.
To India the Persians send spices, dried fruits, tobacco, wine, drugs, dates, sulphur, turquoises, shawls, rose water, swords, horses, grey-hounds, &c. To Turkey, grain, raw silk, tobacco, skins of lambs, spices, salt, sheep, &c.-- Many articles of a similar kind are sent to Bagdat. There is considerable trade also, along the eastern coast of the Cas-
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pian, with the Turcomans, and by way of the interior, with the Tartar tribes, known as Usbeks. The chief article sent to this people, is a peculiar species of shawl, manufactured at Kerman.
The Persians have no shipping of any consequence, sea commerce being almost entirely in the hands of foreigners. The chief coin consists of bajoglees and koroonees, of silver, and pool-e-siah, or black money, of copper. The population is very mixed, consisting of Arabs, Turks, Tartars, Armenians and Georgians, grafted on tho original Persian stock. A large portion of the people live a nomade or wandering life, having no habitation but tents, and no property but their flocks. The people of the towns and cities are devoted to trades and manufactures; there are numerous gardeners and farmers in the vicinity. The higher classes about the court are skillful in every species of intrigue, and are more distinguished for a slippery politeness than for integrity. They are described as at once sensual, venal, deceitful, and treacherous, and when they dare be so, arrogant and overbearing.
The townspeople, influenced by the example of those in high places, partake of their vices, though in an inferior degree. They are heroic, cheerful, polite and sociable; the masters are kind, and the servants obedient. It is said there is a great resemblance between this people and the French, in that universal politeness, running through all classes, and greatly smoothing the intercourse of society.
As a race, the Persians are very handsome, robust and active. The women are beautiful, but in the towns they are kept secluded as in Turkey. The wives of the great spend their time in gossip, bathing, and a little embroidering, and in visiting one another. Many of them meet at the baths, where they have abundance of idle talk and racy scandal. Large, soft, languishing eyes, like those of the gazelle, are considered the chief features of beauty. Many of them are fair, like the women of Sinope, but they all spoil their appearance, according to our taste, by painting their cheeks of various colors and tattooing their skins. They also smoke to excess, thus defiling their breath and ruining their teeth. When they go abroad they wrap themselves entirely in a cloak, extending from the head to the feet, and so arranged as to permit them to see out of two little holes. Though they are thus careful of their persons, their language is in the highest degree coarse and indelicate.
The Persians are Mahomedans of the sect called Sheahs, while the Turks belong to the sect called Scennites. The two are opposed to each other as bitterly as the Catholics and Protestants of Europe or America. The priests in Persia are numerous, and consist of a great many orders, the head being called mooshtehed. Of this rank there are four or five, as there are four or five patriarchs in the Greek Church. There are still a few of the old fire-worshippers, who follow the ancient Zoroaster, whose doctrine was that "by fire we breathe; to this the earth owes its fertility, animals their existence, and plants their vegetation."
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Considerable attention has been paid to education, at different times, in Persia, and especially by some of the former sovereigns. This, however, was chiefly for the higher classes, and for the priesthood. At present there are private schools for teaching to read and write, and especially to understand the prayers and practices or the Mahomedan religion. The children of the rich are taught by private masters at home. There is some literature, embracing poetry and tales, but books of true science and solid history are unknown. The chief poet is Hafiz, who lived in the time of Tamerlane. His verses are too extravagant to be tolerable in English. In one he said ho would give the cities of Samarcand and Bokhara, then in all their splendor, for the mole on the cheek of his mistress. When Tamerlane came to Shiras, where the poet lived, he asked how he dared thus to dispense of his two principal cities.
"Can the gifts of Hafiz impoverish Tamerlane?" said the poet; by which the king was greatly delighted, and consequently he became his friend and patron.
While Hafiz is a sentimental and lyrical poet, Saadi is a moralist, and in this vein is at the head of Persian writers. He was born at Gheniz near the end of the twelfth century, and being in Syria he was taken by the Crusaders and compelled to work as a slave in building fortifications. From this condition he was released by a merchant of Aleppo, who paid ten crowns for his ransom, and gave him his daughter in marriage with a dowry of a hundred crowns. She, however proved a terrible shrew, and led poor Saadi a sad life. On one occasion she reproached him with having been bought of the Christians for ten crowns. "Yes," said the poet; "and then I was sold to you for a hundred crowns."
There are other Persian poets, of whom the most famous is Fiodusi, who wrote a poetical account of the Persiau kings, extending to a dozen folio volumes.
Soon after I arrived at Teheran the spring set in, and having a great curiosity to see the Caspian Sea, I set out for that purpose, with a company of traders going to sell goods to the Usbeks. The distance from Teheran to the Caspian is not over a hundred miles, but the road leads over the Elbourz mountains, so that our journey to the little town of Farhabad, lying at the south-east corner of the Caspian, cost us five days of severe travelling. I here parted with the caravans, which proceeded along the eastern coast, while I sailed in a small sloop for the Russian part of Lankereu.
The Caspian Sea is one of the most remarkable sheets of water in the world. It is about 700 miles long, and from 140 to 400 miles wide. Its extent is about 140,000 square miles, equal to the British Islands, twice as extensive as all New England, and five times as large as Lake Superior. It receives several large rivers, as the Volga, Ural, Zarek, Kur, &c., yet it has no outlet, and such is the amount of its evaporation, that it is 300 feet lower than it was
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in ancient times, and nearly 100 feet lower than the Black Sea. The water is salt, yet much less so than the ocean. It has no tides. It abounds in salmon and other fishes, with seals, &c. In winter its northern part is frozen over. The waters are shallow near the coasts, being but about 12 feet, in other places they are scarcely fathomable. Its shores are broken, and in some places mountainous, so that the winds are made irregular and variable, causing the navigation to be dangerous.
The Caspian Sea is bounded on the south by Persia, on the east by the Leuconians and Kirquis Tartars, and on the west by Russia. Near the north-west corner, at the mouth of the great river Volga, is the Russian town of Astrakan, which has now almost monopolized the entire trade of this great inland sea. At present steamboats ply from this city to several places along the shores.
In two days our sloop reached Lankereu, which I found to be a small town formerly belonging to Persia, but recently taken by Russia. It is a place of some importance, being the chief port in this quarter. Here I staid two days, and then proceeded in the same vessel to Baku, a Russian town on the celebrated peninsulur of Abscharon. This juts out from the western coast some fifty miles, and is noted for its mud volcanoes and springs of naphtha.
Baku has about 5000 inhabitants, and is surronnded by a double wall and deep ditch, constructed in the time of Peter the Great. It has several mosques and caravanseries, but it is very meanly built. Its houses have flat roofs as in the East, and these are covered with naphtha, which excludes the water. The chief advantages of this place consist in its central position, its good harbors, and its wells of naphtha. A steamboat runs between this place and Astrakan.
I had a great curiosity to see the naphtha springs, which I fonud to be in a plain to the south-east end of the city. The quantity produced is really enormous. As soon as the naphtha is taken out of a well it comes in again, so that 1000 and even 1500 pounds are often taken from one pit in a day. It is used by the natives in the country around instead of lamp oil, yet, though it gives a clear flame, it throws out a large quantity of filthy, bad-smelling smoke. The naphtha is exported in large quantities.
Just to the east of this region of the naphtha springs, I saw a large edifice and on inquiry was told that it was the Atash-Kudd of the ancient Ghebers, or fire-worshippers, whom I have recently mentioned. Here is a space of ground nearly a mile in circuit, in the centre of which, from time immemorial, a bluish flame has issued from the ground. Around this the people have built a wall, and to smother the flame, have covered the earth with a thick coat of loam. When, however, they want the flame for any purpose, as to cook their vegetables or to make a pot boil, they scrape a hole in the loam and the fire bursts out. When they have done with it, they cover it up, and the flame gradually disappears.
This is so wonderful that I could hardly believe it, unless I had seen it. A
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kind of sulphurous gas rises with the flame, and when this is extinguished, a current of inflammable air continues for a time. This is taken, in leathern bottles and may be transported to a distance. The whole country around Baku, at particular times, seems to be covered with a light bluish flame, while, however, it does not consume, and a person in the midst of it feels no warmth. Sometimes large masses of fire seemed rolling down from the edges of the mountains, with incredible velocity. In the clear moonlit nights of November and December, the whole western range of mountains seemed clothed in flame.
Besides all this, there are around Baku what are called mud volcanoes. These frequently throw up large quantities of mud, though without any great signs or violence or agitation. My stay being limited, I had not the pleasure or seeing any of their curious phenomena.
I was very anxious to go to Astrakan, as I was told it was quite an interesting place, with 50,000 inhabitants. It has commercial relations with all parts of the Russian Empire, and is in fact a kind of central point between its vast territories of Europe and Asia. It is the chief depot of the trade carried on between Russia, Persia, Tartary, India and China. Orenburg, 500 miles to the north, though a small town, has however large intercourse with Astrakan, especially in connection with the great inland commerce of Russia with Central Asia.
It was near time for me to return to Teheran, as I had engaged to accompany a caravan from that city to Bagdad, and the time for its departure was approaching. I therefore took passage in a little vessel, and after a boisterous passage of seven days, reached Farhabad.
S. G. G.
[To be continued.]
ADVENTURES OF GILBERT GO-AHEAD (from Robert Merry's Museum, October 1854, pp. 298-300)
In my passage from Baiku to Farsabad, we had on board several odd-looking customers, among whom was a merchant of Teheran, but a native of Armenia; a rough, athletic Koord; a roving, piratical sort of a fellow, from Turcomania; two or three Tartars, a Greek priest, and several other persons whose country I could not designate. Our passage was a long one; and in order to pass the time, a great many stories were told. I may as well repeat two or three of them, as they seem to illustrate the manners and customs of these far-off regions. The first I shall give is that of the Armenian, and is as follows:--
"Armenia, as you must know, is one of the oldest countries in the world. Here is Mount Ararat, a mountain standing apart and by itself, yet rising to the height of 17,000 feet above the level of the sea. It was here that the Ark of Noah rested after the deluge, and in its neighborhood, no doubt, were formed some of the earliest states and kingdoms of the world. The upper part of the mountain is now covered with perpetual snow, and it is very difficult to reach its top. Whether it was so in Noah's time, I cannot tell perhaps the water or the deluge melted it off, or perhaps he landed with his ark below the line of snow.
"But, however that might be, there once lived near the foot of the mountain, a shepherd by the name of Luke Gozzo. He was very poor, having only seven sheep, and seven goats, with a miserable shed of wood for a house in the summer. He had also a hole in the ground for his winter's residence, the climate being so severe that most of the people in this quarter are obliged thus to burrow in the earth for six months of the year. Poor Luke had also a little stony patch of land, upon which he raised a few onions, some cabbages, and two or three baskets of beans. This was his whole property; yet he had seven children, and what was very hard for poor Gozzo to comprehend, they were all boys. His wife was an honest creature, and a very thrifty housewife. She was content with her lot; and while her husband grumbled, and thought it very hard that Providence should send him nothing but boys, she took it all in good part, and did the best she could, so that by hook and by crook the family made out to live, in spite of their poverty.
"Now the country of Armenia is very mountainous, and in general the people are poor, so that it is common for the youths to quit the country and go to other places to seek their fortune. When they have got a little money, they often return, and live comfortably in their native mountains.
"When, therefore, the eldest of Luke Gozzo's boys had reached the age of
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fifteen years, it was thought necessary for him to leave the paternal roof, and go into some other country, and try to improve his circumstances. One sheep and one goat was accordingly sold to furnish his outfit. He was provided with two shirts, a pair of shoes, a jacket, and a pair of pantaloons, with fifty cents in money. This was his entire equipment, except a little bag with something carefully sewed up in it, given to him by his mother, with instructions not to open it till he found himself in trouble. This she called a charm, and although her husband laughed at her about it, she impressed it upon her son's mind that it was really a matter of importance. Thus provided, and having received the blessing of his parents, he set forth upon his adventures. The next year, another boy was fifteen, and he was provided and sent off in the same manner. The next year another went; and finally, at the end of seven years, all Luke's boys had departed in search of their fortunes. The seven sheep and the seven goats had also all been sold for their equipment.
"Luke and his wife were now left all alone, aud they were so poor, that they could hardly get the means of living. Seven years had passed away, and they had heard nothing of their children. But now a change began to take place. One morning they were awakened by the noise of sheep and goats bleating around the house. When they got up, a stranger met them at the door, who said to them, 'Your eldest son is now a rich merchant at Constantinople. He has sent you seven sheep and seven goats, and seven pieces of gold and seven pieces of silver, and he has sent me to deliver them, and here they are!' So the man delivered the sheep and the goats, and the gold and silver, and carrying the blessing of the father and mother to the son, he departed.
"A year now elapsed, when early one morning Luke and his wife were awakened by a noise without. When they arose, a stranger met them at the door, and said, 'Your second son is a rich merchant at Bagdad, and he has sent you seven sheep and seven goats, and seven pieces of silver and seven pieces of gold. He has sent me to deliver them, and here they are.' So the man delivered the sheep and the goats, and the silver and the gold; and, carrying the blessing of the father and mother to the second son, he departed.
"At the end of another year, another stranger arrived with the same gifts, from the third son, who was now a rich merchant at Smyrna. At the end of another year, the same gifts came from the fourth son, who was now a rich merchant at St. Petersburg. At the cud of another year, the same came from the fifth son, who was a rich merchant at London. At the end of another year, the same came from the sixth son, who was a rich merchant at Damascus; and at the end of another year, the same came from the seventh son, who was a rich merchant at Teheran.
"And now Luke Gozzo was rich, for he had large flocks of sheep and goats, and he had a big chest full of gold and
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silver. He had also the satisfaction to know that his sons had all prospered in life. Thus he and his wife were very happy, and glided gently down the stream of life together. Only one thing was wanted to complete their satisfaction, and that was to see their children once more. At last, when they were stricken in years, their eldest son came and while he tarried with them, the second came, and then the third; and finally all the seven sons were with them.
"And when they were together, they conversed about their several adventures, aud how they had all prospered; and each one declared that his success was owing to the charm in the little bag, given to them by their mother at parting."
Here the Armenian paused, as if he had finished his story, but several persons at the same time asked him what was the charm in the little bag. Putting his hand in his pocket, he drew out a small bag like a purse, but much worn, and holding it, he said, "Here is one of the charms."
"And are you one of the seven sons?" said I.
"I am," he replied, "and I am on my way back from the meeting of my brothers, to my home at Teheran."
"And you really attribute your success in life to this charm?"
"I do."
"It must be of the greatest value then?"
"Yes; would you like to buy one?"
I replied in the affirmative, aud several other passengers also expressed a desire to purchase the art of getting rich. At last, however, the Armenian said, "Come, I will open the bag, and show you the charm!" Upon this, he opened the bag, and on a bit of sheep skin was written, in the Armenian language, as follows:--"DO THE BEST YOU CAN, AND PRAY GOD TO HELP YOU!"
We all agreed that it was a good story, and now the Koord was called upon to tell one. But the account of this must be deferred till my next.
S. G. G.
ADVENTURES OF GILBERT GO-AHEAD (from Robert Merry's Museum, November 1854, pp. 339-342)
I may as well say that the country of the Koords, called Koordistan, borders Armenia on the south, and forms at present a part of the Turkish empire. The northern part is mountains, and here the people live in rude castles, built upon cliffs and rocks. The persons who inhabit these are chiefs, who are almost independent of all government. Some of them live quietly by agriculture, but most of them are robbers. In the southern part, the country is more level, and the people are more civilized, and more devoted to agriculture.
Beside these persons who live in fixed habitations, there are large numbers of wandering Koords, who dwell in huts, and remove with their horses, dromedaries, sheep, and goats, from place to place, as their needs may require. Their huts are low and hastily put together upon piles; the covering is of coarse black cloth, there being a division inside, one part for the man and one for the woman. Around an encampment consisting of several huts, and inclosing the flocks, is a fire [fence] made of hurdles of reeds, that is, reeds woven together. Horses, ready saddled, are tethered outside the inclosure.
The people are great horsemen; and like the Persians and Tartars, have fine breeds of horses. They employ the lance as a military weapon, and in the use of it they are very skilful. They are strict Mahometans, and dress somewhat like Turks, though they wear a red conical bonnet, instead of a turban, and shave or pluck out the beard. A cloak of black goat-skin is in common use for an outer garment. Our travelling companion was thus attired, and therefore he had a very wild appearance. I may add that these wandering Koords are very much devoted to robbery, and often make extensive excursions either on swift dromedaries or on horseback, for the purpose of plunder. The whole country as far as Damascus and Aleppo, with others at a distance of one, two, and even three hundred miles off, is often ravaged by parties of these bold and hardy freebooters. It is, however, a curious fact, that these people do not seem to be greedy of money, and often perform very liberal acts. If a stranger comes among them, they are very hospitable; and when he goes away, they will sometimes make him rich presents. It is necessary to add that the greater part of the wandering Koords, who are professed robbers, live within the territories of Persia, the country called Koordistan extending into that kingdom. After this preface, the reader will appreciate the story of the Koord, which was as follows:--
"To the south of Armenia, and west of Koordistan, lies the district of Diarbekir, the capital being a city of the same name. Its ancient name was
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Anieda, and being surrounded with a lofty wall of black stone, it is called by the natives Black-Anied. It is situated on the Tigris, and indeed is nearly encircled by that river. Its houses are built of stone, and it is altogether the most splendid city in that part of the country.
"Now, many years ago, there lived in this city a rich merchant by the name of Zamoun. In early life, he had traded in various countries: he had traded to China, and Hindostan, and Persia, and Bagdad, and Damascus; he had sent caravans loaded with precious stones, jewels in silver and gold, shawls, and other goods, from one place to another, even from China to Astrakan, and from Astrakan to China; and thus he had amassed his great wealth.
"Rich as he was, however, Zamoun was a hard man. Whoever owed him money, must pay, or go to prison. Among others that became his victims was a chief of Koordistan, by the name of Boroz. He borrowed a large sum of money of Zamoun, promising to pay it at a given time. Not being able to do this, the hard-hearted merchant threw him into prison, took possession of his castle in Koordistan, and turned his family out of doors. When some one remonstrated with him for this severity, he replied that these Koords are great rascals, that they never kept their engagements, and it was rather a merit than a crime to shut them up in prison whenever a chance was offered.
"But although Zamoun was thus hard-hearted, and seemed to be above every thing else, there was in fact one thing which he loved still better, and that was his daughter Peria. She was a beautiful girl of sixteen years of age, and all that remained to him of his family. But at last she was taken ill, and gradually pined away, so that she could hardly stand. Her father was greatly distressed, aud sent for all the most celebrated physicians of Diarbekir and the vicinity. They shook their heads, and said that the disease was very mysterious, and therefore they could hardly make any prediction as to its result. On the whole, however, they had little reason to hope for her recovery.
"While things were in this desperate state, Zamoun heard of a young stranger who had just arrived in Diarhekir, and who, it was said, was a famous physician. He sent to him, and besought him to come and see his daughter. The stranger came, and having examined the patient, he remarked, 'You love this child, Zamoun?'
"'Yes, above all things.'
"'Above your wealth?'
"'Yes, I would cheerfully give all I possess to insure her recovery.'
"'Well, her disease is severe but not hopeless. If you desire it, I will undertake her treatment. If I fail, I will accept no fee; if I succeed, you shall give me all your possessions--lands, houses, merchandise, and money. What say you to my proposition?'
"'It is most unreasonable: you would not ask me to accede to it. Do not take advantage of my agony. If you
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have skill, I beseech you to use it for the restoration of my child.'
"'I will make you another proposition,' said the physician. 'If I save your daughter, I will take either your fortune or her as my reward, but it shall be at my option.'
"'Oh, have pity on me,' said the agonized father. 'While we are chaffering as to the fee, my child is dying. I acceede to your proposition. Only save her, and it is all I ask.'
'But the contract must be in writing.'
"'Well, write it, and I will sign it.'
"The contract was accordingly written, and duly executed. The physician then sat down by the patient, and after a careful examination, he prescribed certain remedies. For two days no change was perceived, but at last she fell into a profound sleep, and after a time, awoke much refreshed. The crisis was past, the danger was over. In two weeks the young girl was completely restored.
"The physician was now absent for a few days, but at last he returned aud went to the house of Zamoun. The merchant trembled when he saw him, for he supposed he had come to demand the fulfilment of the contract, he would have kept him out of the house, had he dared to do so. He thought it best, however, to greet him civilly. Accordingly, after some hesitation, he went forward and gave the usual salutations. He then said, 'I suppose you have come for your fee: there is a thousand crowns of silver, which you will confess is a generous reward. I owe you much, and you see I pay accordingly.'
"'You seem to forget the contract between us.'
"'No, I remember it, but that of course is a farce: you cannot think of enforcing so absurd an agreement.'
"'Do you mean to deny its validity?'
"'Of course, I do."
"'Well, we will see how it is.'
"The physician departed, and proceeded to the pacha of the district. The case was stated to him, and the decision was that the contract was valid. Zamoun was therefore commanded immediately to fulfil it. Officers went with the physician to return this answer and to enforce the contract.
"The merchant saw there was no escape, and therefore he prepared to obey. He called upon the physician to decide which he should claim, his fortune or his child.
"'Your child!' was the reply.
"The old man fell upon his knees and begged the physician rather to take his fortune. The heart of the young man was touched: he took the contract in his hands, tore it in pieces, and gave them to Zamoun. With a mingled look of delight and amazement, he took the fragments, and then asked--
"'Is this a sudden act of madness, or is it your deliberate intention?'
"'It is my deliberate intention.'
"'And you thus release me from my engagement?'
"'I do.'
"'And you leave me my fortune and my child?'
"'I do.'
"'This is a miracle. Who are you?'
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"I belong to a people you despise.'
"'What do you mean?'
"'I am a Koord.'
"'You have redeemed the race in my opinion; such an act as you have just performed could hardly have been achieved even by a citizen of Diarbekir.'
"'But you have not heard all.'
"'What more have you to say?'
"'I am the son of Boroz!'
"The old man staggered: this was too much, and a sudden paralysis seized him. The shock, however, was slight, and soon passed away. He now confessed that the physician had conquered him. He caused Boroz to be immediately liberated from prison, and offered to restore his castle; he also pressed the physician to receive a large sum of money for his services. Both the father and son, however, refused to accept anything, and soon departed to their own country.
"Here they took possession of a small estate belonging to them, but they had been there only two months when a message came from Zamoun, saying that his daughter was again at the point of death, and begging the young physician immediately to come to Diarbekir, aud prescribe for her. With this request, he complied. On examining the patient, he was greatly puzzled, for though she had symptoms of fever, he could discover no cause for it. In a short time she was quite restored, but just as the physician was about to depart, she had a relapse.
"Zamoun was a shrewd man, and he now readily divined the cause of his daughter's illness. Taking the young physician aside, he said:
"'Have you discovered the seat of my daughter's disease?'
"'It is in the region of the heart; but I have not discovered the cause.'
"'And have you divined the cure?'
"'I am afraid not. My medicines have given temporary relief, but, as you see, the symptoms have returned.'
"'Will you allow me to prescribe for her?'
"'You can do what you will with your own child.'
"'Then I prescribe you as her husband.'
"The physician did not object. As soon as Peria was informed of the arrangement she had a terrible spasm, but she got over it, and in a week was so perfectly recovered as to go through the ceremony of marriage."
S. G. G.
[To be continued.]