Raison d'être.--The Commissariat.--A bad Beginning.--Goths and Vandals.--Moral Reflections.--Natural History of Niagara.--The Badness of Women.--Moral Reflections.--The Goodness of Men.--More Moral Reflections.--Tact against Temper.--A Negation of Moral Reflections.--A Baby.--Two Babies.--Eloquent Outburst on Chicago.--Chicago itself.--Unhappy Girl in Chicago.--Inexperienced happy Pair in Chicago Station.--Experienced happy Quartette in Chicago Station.--Predisposing Causes of the happy Pair.--Happy Family in Chicago Station.--Distressed Woman in Chicago Station.--Wisconsin.--Distressed Woman continued.--Distressed Woman concluded. ... page 9

Darwinian Theory in Milwaukee.--Milwaukee itself.--Pottawatomies in Newhall House.--Wonderful Advance of Civilization in Milwaukee.--Remarkable Girl in Milwaukee.--Saint Paul considered in his Relations to Milwaukee.--Aged Party in Train.--Motherless Baby in Train.--Treatise on the Inalienability of motherless Babies.--A Woman bringing a Man to Time.--Coming to Time herself.--A disagreeable Damsel.--General

Parting Blessing.--On the Prairie.--Sublimity of a Minnesota Farm.--A Violent Supposition.--The Bearing of the Earth's Rotundity on Minnesota Farmers.--Flemish Painting of our House.--Elegant Extracts from Antique Rhymes.--Bill of Fare.--Bill of Costs.--Self-Help.--Second Self-Help.--Outdoors.--Farm Buildings.--Hard Work, and a good Deal of it.--Mitigating the Curse by Machinery.--Praiseworthy attempts at Descriptions.--Sentiment hovering over a Threshing-Machine.--A Fling at the "lower States" in the Interest of Minnesota.--Many Things.--Computing the Gains.--Counting the Cost. ... page 73

Fruit crop of Minnesota compared with the Snakes of Ireland.--Plumming.--Going to Mill.--Perambulating Ruins in Minnesota.--Advantages of Ruins.--Moral and Æsthetic.--Vermillion Falls.--County Fair.--Metaphysical and Agricultural Uses of a County Fair.--Pilgrims' Progress to a County Fair.--Norsemen and

The Result of Feeding, upon Ambition.--Holding our own against the Pretensions of Nature.--A Rhapsody over a Covered Wagon.--Expanding to the Occasion.--The Mississippi in a Decline.--Causes Agricultural and Sentimental.--The Roadside.--Sea-Kings in Minnesota.--A Lakeside Dinner.--Travelling in Beulah.--Grass-growing explained on the true Principles of Poesy.--Doubtful Roads.--Escort in the Air.--Distance lending Enchantment.--Speculation.--Solid Ground.--Uncertain Foundations.--Busy Bees.--The Bridge that carries us safe over.--Hotel in the Transition Era.--Pathetic Discourse to Landlords.--A Surplus of Boys.--Saint Anthony.--Periphrasis of a Water-Cure Establishment.--Saint Anthony's Claims to respect statistically considered.--Brawl between the Mississippi and Mankind.--An Act to amend the Act of Creation.--A Bewildered Saint.--An Appeal to a Saint's Good Sense.--Fulfilment of Prophecy.--Suspension Bridge.--Father Hennepin's Temptation.--Minneapolis.--A Memory. ... page 115

The Pursuit of Sentiment under Difficulties.--Lo! the poor Indian.--Hiawatha rampant.--A Popular Mistake corrected.--Minnehaha.--Shawondasee and Steam-En-

Yarrow revisited.--A Display of Philological Erudition.--Egyptian Society.--On the Ohio.--Temptation resisted.--Piloting.--Reliable History of the Invention of Steam.--The Lost Found.--Visit to Mammoth Cave.--Battle Phantoms.--The Dethroned Monarch.--Nashville.--Chit-chat.--Across Country.--Stone River.--Clay-eaters.--A Sign-board.--Train off the Track potentially.--Vagaries of the Country.--Lookout. ... page 184

Shady South.--Moppet's Ideas of Things.--A Charleston Irish-woman's Experience and Observation.--New England in Chattanooga.--Hackmanism in Chattanooga.--Mars bearing a Clothes-basket.--Freedmen's Houses.--Intelligent Driver.--Military Ascent of Lookout according to Intelligent Driver.--Civil Ascent of Lookout.--Scenes within Scenes.--Paying off old Scores.--Historic Doubts concerning Mission Ridge.--Impossibility of Storming Lookout.--Storming Lookout.--Ingenious Manner of giving one's self a little Puff.--Doing one's Duty to the Rising Generation.--The School on Mount Lookout.--Reappearance of Mars.--A Bid for Flattery.--Proposal to carry the War into Africa.--The African proving a somewhat Long Road to Travel, but Ending in Africa at last.--Neatness and Charm of Africa.--Revelation to an Ethiop of the Jewel in his Ear. He bears it like a Man.--Reconstruction. ... page 215

Fame Waiting a Name.--Officers' Car.--Topsy by Night.--Relieving Burnside.--Knoxville.--Comfortable Reflections for a Besieged Town.--Holding on.--Fort Saunders.--Return to Knoxville.--The Dead.--The Living.--New England.--A Plan of Reconstruction.--Pauperism North and South.--Hatred, its Causes and Cures.--Playing off the South and West against each other. ... page 252

East Tennessee.--Historic Doubts concerning Black Mountain.--Footprints of Fugitives.--On the War-trail.--Pursuit of Knowledge under Difficulties.--A Georgian Planter.--Plantation Opinions.--Off the Track.--Northern Man with Southern Experience.--Accounts from Charleston. ... page 282

In Washington.--Arlington.--Freedmen's Village.--A Patriarch.--Comparing Notes with Freedmen concerning Freedom.--Mount Vernon Colored Schools.--Colored Churches.--A (colored) Representative of the First Families of Virginia.--Gettysburg.--Gossip of the Battle.--Home.--The Dénouement. ... page 304